All the ingredients, why they are in the recipe and what they do.
Old fashioned soap is made through a chemical reaction called saponification, also called cold process soap making. This is the method I use. It takes 2 days in the mold + 4-6 weeks to cure!
For extra hair moisturizing power, I've made this recipe 'superfatted', which basically just means I’ve left in a little extra nourishing oil that doesn’t turn into soap, perfect for softer, healthier hair.
It’s the result of a natural chemical reaction called saponification.
Oil/Fat + Lye (NaOH) → Soap + Glycerin
Or more precisely:
Triglyceride (from oils/fats) + 3 NaOH → Glycerol + 3 Soap molecules (sodium salts)
The lye breaks apart the triglycerides in oils, and the fatty acids bind with sodium to form soap. Glycerin is a natural byproduct that keeps moisture in the hair and skin, commercial soap often removes it, but handmade bars retain it for hydration and softness.
Superfatting means there’s extra nourishing oil left in the bar that doesn’t turn into soap. When I make these shampoo bars, I intentionally leave about 7% of the oils unsaponified, meaning they stay in their natural, moisturizing form. This “superfat” helps condition your hair and scalp, adds softness, and prevents the bar from being too drying. It’s a small but powerful detail that makes handmade bars gentler and better for daily use, especially if you're switching from detergent-based shampoos.
A nourishing base oil used in saponification. Pomace grade creates a harder bar with better lather compared to virgin olive oil. It provides deep moisture and is gentle on sensitive scalps, perfect as the foundation of the formula.
A nutrient-rich oil that supports healthy, hydrated hair.
Unrefined, cold-pressed avocado oil retains natural vitamins A, D, and E. It delivers softness and nourishment, especially for dry or brittle hair.
Adds cleansing power, bubbly lather, and firmness.
This organic version melts at 76°F and brings natural antimicrobial properties. It contributes to a long-lasting, high-lather bar, with only a light coconut scent.
A creamy, scalp-soothing butter that locks in moisture.
Unrefined shea butter is rich in nutrients, helping to soften hair, reduce frizz, and calm irritated scalps, all while creating a smooth, creamy lather.
Lends richness to the lather and conditions the scalp.
This high-quality castor oil is cold-pressed without chemical solvents. It enhances foam and leaves your hair feeling soft and hydrated.
A powerful ingredient for scalp health.
Neem oil is naturally antibacterial and antifungal, ideal for reducing dandruff and itchiness. Cold-pressed to retain its full potency, strong scent, but totally worth it.
Balances bar hardness with a silky hair feel.
Cocoa butter helps harden the bar naturally while adding a touch of luxury. It also conditions hair and gives each wash a soft, velvety finish.
The essential alkali for soap making. Lye is what turns oils into soap, no lye, no saponification. I use high-purity lye formulated for cold-process soap to ensure safety and consistency.
The solvent that activates the lye.
Distilled water ensures purity and prevents mineral reactions (like soap scum) that can occur with tap water.
A natural salt used to harden the bar.
Derived from fermented sugar, sodium lactate makes the bar longer-lasting and easier to unmold, without the need for synthetic hardeners.
A plant-derived conditioner for shine, strength, and moisture.
Panthenol helps retain moisture, smooths the hair cuticle, and adds resilience to strands. It’s a proven, gentle ingredient that supports hair health over time.
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