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The ingredient List

The Base Recipe.

All the ingredients, why they are in the recipe and what they do.

Old fashioned soap is made through a chemical reaction called saponification, also called cold process soap making. This is the method I use. It takes 2 days in the mold + 4-6 weeks to cure!

For extra hair moisturizing power, I've made this recipe 'superfatted', which basically just means I’ve left in a little extra nourishing oil that doesn’t turn into soap, perfect for softer, healthier hair.

🧼 What is shampoo/soap?

It’s the result of a natural chemical reaction called saponification.

Oil/Fat + Lye (NaOH) → Soap + Glycerin

Or more precisely:

Triglyceride (from oils/fats) + 3 NaOH → Glycerol + 3 Soap molecules (sodium salts)

The lye breaks apart the triglycerides in oils, and the fatty acids bind with sodium to form soap. Glycerin is a natural byproduct that keeps moisture in the hair and skin, commercial soap often removes it, but handmade bars retain it for hydration and softness.

🧈 What is superfat?

Superfatting means there’s extra nourishing oil left in the bar that doesn’t turn into soap. When I make these shampoo bars, I intentionally leave about 7% of the oils unsaponified, meaning they stay in their natural, moisturizing form. This “superfat” helps condition your hair and scalp, adds softness, and prevents the bar from being too drying. It’s a small but powerful detail that makes handmade bars gentler and better for daily use, especially if you're switching from detergent-based shampoos.

🫒 Olive Oil (Pomace Grade)

A nourishing base oil used in saponification. Pomace grade creates a harder bar with better lather compared to virgin olive oil. It provides deep moisture and is gentle on sensitive scalps, perfect as the foundation of the formula.

🥑 Avocado Oil (Cold-Pressed & Unrefined)

A nutrient-rich oil that supports healthy, hydrated hair.

Unrefined, cold-pressed avocado oil retains natural vitamins A, D, and E. It delivers softness and nourishment, especially for dry or brittle hair.

🥥 Coconut Oil (76° – Organic)

Adds cleansing power, bubbly lather, and firmness.

This organic version melts at 76°F and brings natural antimicrobial properties. It contributes to a long-lasting, high-lather bar, with only a light coconut scent.

🌰 Shea Butter (Unrefined – Organic)

A creamy, scalp-soothing butter that locks in moisture.

Unrefined shea butter is rich in nutrients, helping to soften hair, reduce frizz, and calm irritated scalps, all while creating a smooth, creamy lather.

🌿 Castor Oil (Cold-Pressed, Hexane-Free)

Lends richness to the lather and conditions the scalp.

This high-quality castor oil is cold-pressed without chemical solvents. It enhances foam and leaves your hair feeling soft and hydrated.

🍃 Neem Oil (Cold-Pressed)

A powerful ingredient for scalp health.

Neem oil is naturally antibacterial and antifungal, ideal for reducing dandruff and itchiness. Cold-pressed to retain its full potency, strong scent, but totally worth it.

🍫 Cocoa Butter (Natural)

Balances bar hardness with a silky hair feel.

Cocoa butter helps harden the bar naturally while adding a touch of luxury. It also conditions hair and gives each wash a soft, velvety finish.

⚗️ Sodium Hydroxide (Lye)

The essential alkali for soap making. Lye is what turns oils into soap, no lye, no saponification. I use high-purity lye formulated for cold-process soap to ensure safety and consistency.

💧 Distilled Water

The solvent that activates the lye.

Distilled water ensures purity and prevents mineral reactions (like soap scum) that can occur with tap water.

🧂 Sodium Lactate

A natural salt used to harden the bar.

Derived from fermented sugar, sodium lactate makes the bar longer-lasting and easier to unmold, without the need for synthetic hardeners.

✨ Panthenol (Provitamin B5)

A plant-derived conditioner for shine, strength, and moisture.

Panthenol helps retain moisture, smooths the hair cuticle, and adds resilience to strands. It’s a proven, gentle ingredient that supports hair health over time.

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Erin Shellington Consulting Inc.